Cotton Cheongsam

Cotton Cheongsam #1
Overall difficulty: medium
Techniques used: French seams, pinked edges, blind hem, invisible zipper installation, bias tape

Lessons learned for next time: I should definitely leave more seam allowance as this dress barely fits around my hips.  When I know I plan to use French seams, I would cut it more generously because I'm rather bad about making sure that seam stays at its proper size and it's good for me to have extra. Also, blind hem stitch sure took a lot of finagling from me to get the right stitch width to make it work.
Would I make it again? Totally! With a few alterations I mention below.  And it'd be fun to try this in a fabric with some stretch to it.

A short while ago I was obsessed with border prints.  I ordered this butterfly one off of fabric.com, but when it arrived I discovered the pattern tiles vertically, not along the border.  I was at a loss of what to do with this fabric until I read an article showing borders used as a wonderful accent on necklines and waistlines.  Brilliant!   After that I just had to hunt down a dress pattern made of long, thin panels and I remembered that I had also been interesting in trying my hand at making a cotton cheongsam - such as the ones pictured in vintage Shanghai posters.   

I found this cheongsam pattern off a site FULL OF FREE PATTERNS  You download and print out a pdf file which tiles out the pattern pieces, and you tape them all together.  I wasn't expecting that much from this pattern because 1) I just found it randomly on the internet, 2) it was free, 3) there's no reviews or anything to let you know how well put together the pattern is.  But, it's free so it wasn't like I was risking much!  

With this dress I really tried to apply myself and work on some better construction techniques, particularly on all the seams.  I don't have a serger, but there's ways of finishing seams so they don't all fray away into nothing when you wash it.  So overall for me this dress was a level up even as I see many things to correct for the NEXT one I make.  Yup, I liked this so much I created a more durable pattern for myself even though already I know there's alterations for that next one - I'd really make this a few inches longer, make it less of a racerback cut around the arms, and remember that I DO know how to put in a lining or construct an armhole with facing for a much more attractive opening.

The internet was a wonderful resource for all the techniques I wanted to learn and us e this time.  The following list has the particularly helpful tutorials I used.  There's lots of them out there for each technique, but I found the pictures for these the best.

How to Make French Seams
Blind Hem - what that heck is it and how does it work?
How to Make Your Own Bias Tape
Invisible Zippers - YOU Can Install One Too, Today!

And to finish off the post, another dance inspired photo.  Till next time!

Scalloped Heart Dress

It's been another two weeks of adventure in the realm of sewing for me.  Ages ago I had decided I would try to make a dress to wear to an upcoming wedding, and I'd found this great retro pattern that looked fairly simple.  I had made a mock up and a casual summer dress with the pattern (which...had problems with going wrong and wronger under another deadline), but I thought surely, the third time would work perfectly.  Ha!  Just goes to show nothing goes according to plan.

This is the dress I ended up with.  There's been a few late nights tearing out my hair and a ton of stitches regarding the skirt - the first draft of the dress ended up with an alarming amount of poof.  Like absolutely ridiculous amounts of poof.  With the clock ticking (I leave in 2 days and I had to leave time for actual packing and prepping to go) to a deadline of Sunday, I frantically thumbed through my patterns to find an alternative skirt.  So, in the end the dress looks not very much like my original pattern, but woohoo! - I have something to wear to the wedding.

These are the two patterns I based the dress off of.  It was a bit of  hack and slash to put those things together after the Poof Incident, though not to bad since the waistline is about the same area.  It wasn't as hard as I thought to tackle the pencil skirt, actually, though next time I'll know better about how to adjust the pattern to fit my hips better.  The hardest part I think was that the dress is now PRETTY SNUG right at the waist after I added in the zipper - it just took up a lot of the seam on the side.  Sadly I won't be able to gorge myself in the week leading up to the wedding, when I'm visiting New York - oh no!

I found a good scalloped edge tutorial which helped me out for the neckline.  This is the second attempt at a heart cutout for the back.  I totally forgot to attach a stiffer material to the back of the dress so it only really holds its shape if I'm not moving my arms around.  Seems like that heart cutouts are a pretty popular thing, judging from Etsy. :).


I'm very relieved it's finally done, so I took a dancing pic to celebrate.  The dance pose was inspired by the Chinese Dai ethnic group, which is very well known for their peacock dance.  The traditional costume includes a long narrow  sarong-style skirt, so the dance moves don't feature a lot of open flexibility in the hips.  My hands aren't so perfect but, eh. :)  Taken using the timer off my Canon 7D, lit with natural daylight and a ring flash.  Note to self to use a more powerful flash and/or ought to have used faster shutter speed to catch movement without blurring.

Next stop - mad amount of laundry, cleaning the house, and packing for the trip! :D

Hello Kitty Dress Refashion

I really have a terrible habit of seeing something a friend has and then wanting it.  Maybe it's just good marketing by association?  A few weeks ago I saw AJ wearing an adorable Hello Kitty top and I instantly had to have one for myself!  And what better way to break in a new (to me) used sewing machine that I had just bought from AJ? 

It's been a long time since I have tried refashioning anything (a whole year according to this blog!).  I had the perfect dress I wanted to cut up.  It was another old Forever21 purchase and as you see here it was sort of cute but at the same time not very inspired.  Also, the one and only time I wore it was on a day years and years ago where I had a very, very off, breaking up kind of day with an on-off again relationship.  My biggest regret was being slightly unfashionable during said encounter and I could never bring myself to wear the dress again.  A very good reason to cut it up, don't you think?  I had some scraps of white knit jersey from a friend, enough to make a tube top.




Basically I sliced off the skirt segment, and sewed on the tube top portion.   The white tube is double layered.  I ended up having to cut the fabric so that the outward facing panel has the grain running horizontally but the inside layer the grain is vertical.  Overall there's less stretch since I have layered the fabric this way but it actually feels more secure and supportive.  The Hello Kitty face I cut from pieces of crafting felt and tacked onto the top layer of the tube top.  Her bow I made from scraps of lycra and stuffed with cotton balls since I didn't have any batting around. 

I'm quite pleased with it!  I already have a bit of a Hello Kitty reputation at work so I'd probably only wear it on the weekends or very, very casual days at work.

And bringing it all together in addition to pointing out the dangers of giving me a camera with a self-timer function and to show off the reason why my house has large amounts of blank walls - and that a new dress makes me so happy I just have to dance -->

I may have to take more dancing photos of all my clothes I make!  Just because.